The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across the city. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and over three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist cities remain greener and more diverse. They preserve land from construction by establishing permanent, productive farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Across Bristol
The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on